You can download the knitting pattern and also purchase a hat kit in either blue or red right here:
Duplicate Stitch
Add those snowflakes & avoid using 3 colors at time with duplicate stitch.
Very Pink Duplicate Stitch Tutorial via YouTube
How to Read a Knitting Chart
Knitting charts are read from bottom-to-top and right-to-left. Learn the finer points of reading knitting charts:
KnitPicks How to Read Knitting Charts Article
Long Tail Cast On
The long tail cast on for beginners! This stretch cast-on is both lovely and functional:
Long Tail Cast On for Beginners Tutorial via YouTube
Norwegian Knitting Thimble
Speed up your colorwork and improve your tension with a Norwegian knitting thimble.
DankFiber Knitting Thimble Tutorial via YouTube
Buy a knitting thimble for just $5.
Satin Stitch
Work a simple, two stitch nose using satin stitch with your orange yarn & tapestry needle.
Wool and the Gang Satin Stitch Tutorial via YouTube
Weaving In Ends
There's no way around it - colorwork generates so many ends! When possible, I've started weaving in ends as I go. It's nearly invisible and saves a lot of work at the end of the project.
Very Pink Weave In Ends As You Go Tutorial via YouTube
There are some times when weaving in as you go isn't ideal as it creates distortion on the front side of the work. Instead, weave in those ends using a tapestry needle after the knitting is complete.
Very Pink Weaving in Ends Tutorial via YouTube
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Yardage is listed as both full skeins of the original Amy March DK and by total yardage. A Dk weight yarn with good elasticity is recommended for best fit. For a more affordable yarn I recommend Reborn Recycled Wool.
MC: Comet, CC1 / Orange: Blood Orange, CC2 / Yellow: Butter, CC3 / Black Coffee, CC4 / Pink: Dusty Rose
Yarn requirements listed as BOTH yardage & number of skeins (to simplify purchasing Amy March DK to match samples). You only need the yardage required. For example, 560 yards = 2 skeins of Amy March DK. Add 2 skeins of Amy March DK for a total of 560 yards.
Yardage & number of skeins are listed for all colors.
Main Color Skeins | MC Yardage | Orange Skeins | Orange Yardage | Yellow Skeins | Yellow Yardage | Black Skeins | Black Yardage | Pink Yardage | |
XXS | 2 | 560 | 1 | 280 | 0.5 | 140 | 0.5 | 140 | 10 |
XS | 2 | 560 | 1 | 280 | 0.5 | 140 | 0.5 | 140 | 10 |
S | 2.5 | 700 | 1 | 280 | 0.5 | 140 | 0.5 | 140 | 10 |
M | 3.5 | 980 | 1.5 | 420 | 1 | 280 | 1 | 280 | 10 |
L | 3.5 | 980 | 1.5 | 420 | 1 | 280 | 1 | 280 | 10 |
XL | 3.5 | 1120 | 1.5 | 420 | 1.5 | 420 | 1 | 280 | 10 |
2XL | 4 | 1120 | 1.5 | 420 | 1.5 | 420 | 1 | 280 | 10 |
3XL | 4 | 1120 | 1.5 | 420 | 1.5 | 420 | 1 | 280 | 10 |
4XL | 4 | 1120 | 2 | 560 | 1.5 | 420 | 1 | 280 | 10 |
5XL | 4.5 | 1260 | 2 | 560 | 2 | 560 | 1.5 | 420 | 10 |
6XL | 4.5 | 1260 | 2 | 560 | 2 | 560 | 1.5 | 420 | 10 |
This pattern gives 3”/ 7.5 cm positive ease. Measure the largest point of your chest and choose the closest size from the chart.
|
Full Bust | Upper Arm | |
XXS | 63 | 28 |
XS | 73 | 33 |
S | 84 | 33 |
M | 94 | 36 |
ML | 104 | 36 |
L | 114 | 38 |
XL | 129 | 38 |
2XL | 137 | 40 |
3XL | 145 | 43 |
4XL | 155 | 46 |
5XL | 160 | 48 |
6XL | 165 | 56 |
I-Cord Cast-On
Here's a great video on how to complete the 3 stitch I-cord cast-on:
Very Pink I-Cord Cast-On via YouTube
Duplicate Stitch
Embroider those cute ghost faces using the duplicate stitch!
Very Pink Duplicate Stitch Tutorial via YouTube
Norwegian Knitting Thimble
Speed up your colorwork and improve your tension with a Norwegian knitting thimble.
DankFiber Knitting Thimble Tutorial via YouTube
Weaving In Ends
There's no way around it - colorwork generates so many ends! When possible, I've started weaving in ends as I go. It's nearly invisible and saves a lot of work at the end of the project.
Very Pink Weave In Ends As You Go Tutorial via YouTube
There are some times when weaving in as you go isn't ideal as it creates distortion on the front side of the work. Instead, weave in those ends using a tapestry needle after the knitting is complete.
Very Pink Weaving in Ends Tutorial via YouTube
The Reborn Recycled Wool colors are a little bit muted compared to the brightness of the Amy March Dk of the original sweater.
]]>
Let's kick off 2021 in style - this month, I'm giving you extra rewards for doing what you love: shopping for yarn.
Place an order of $75+ during the month of January & you'll receive a Yarn Love credit to spend in February.
To qualify:
Yarn Love Cash |
|
Order Value | Credit Amount |
$75 | $10 |
$150 | $20 |
$200 | $25 |
$300 | $40 |
$350 | $50 |
When working up stranded colorwork, it's extremely important to choose the right colors so the stitches show up as they were designed. With a rainbow of colors to choose from, this can be overwhelming for new colorwork knitters.
1. Go monochromatic to simplify choosing colors.
Set yourself up for easy success by simplifying the colors. I love a monochromatic color scheme, like my blue palette here. Keeping the colors confined to blue (ok, a blue-green snuck in there, too...) helps you focus on the most important part of selecting colors: saturation levels.
I used one 50 gram skein of Cinderella fingering for each of my accent colors:
If blue isn't your favorite color, you could choose all green or all purple. The main goal is not to stray around the colorwheel and stick to the same hue.
2. Color saturation is the key to colorwork success.
Color saturation is the relative strength or lightness of the color. My background color is a blue so pale that it's almost white - it's very lightly saturated. I also included a navy, which is so darkly saturated, it's nearly black.
When pairing up colors, make sure that you don't have a light color next to another light color or your beautiful colorwork stitches won't show up.
You want contrast in your saturation levels to make those stitches pop!
Placing a lightly saturated color next to a darkly saturated color creates the most contrast, but you can also pair up a light + medium, a medium + dark.
My best tip for determining the saturation level of your colors, is to snap a quick photo of the colors on your phone, and use the editor to apply a black and white filter. This makes it really easy to see which of your colors fall into the light, medium, and dark categories.
If you are having a hard time telling the difference between two colors in your black and white photo, do NOT place these colors next to each other in your colorwork. The stitches will only blend between the colors.
For my Panglossian, my main color (background) color is very light & has great contrast with all my accent colors. For my bands of colorwork, I paired a medium + dark color. You can follow this same blueprint.
The original Panglossian sweater follows the same saturation blue print: light background, with dark + medium accent colors.
Gauge is so important to the fit of your garment! Since knitting is geometry: how many stitches you work up into one inch, versus what the pattern lists as stitches per inch must match if you want you garment to come out the right size.
Here in the Midwest summers regularly hit the triple digits with really high humidity. There is no way I will wear a Dk weight wool top anytime June – August. Since my goal was to make a casual, easy wearing summer top, I needed to switch to fingering weight.
Gauge can be tricky, so I recommend swatching pretty extensively and washing your swatch so you know how the fabric will behave once it gets a bath. (Spoiler alert: some yarns grow or shrink like crazy when you get them wet.)
That being said, sometimes there are easy ways to switch yarn weights without throwing your work off the listed pattern gauge. For me, switching from a DK weight yarn to fingering – especially in a colorwork pattern – is an extremely easy swap. I can literally swap these weights out by adjusting my needle size.
Here’s how to switch yarn weights successfully:
Modifying the Pattern (if necessary)
In this sample, the Panglossian sweater has positive ease – meaning it’s bigger than my actual measurments, which gives me a little bit of wiggle room if my gauge is a teensy bit off.
My swatch told me that I could achieve the written gauge with a fingering weight yarn, so I made no modifications to the pattern.
If your swatch shows you a fraction of a stitch off the pattern gauge, do a little math. Sometimes, it’s possible to choose a size one larger or smaller and you can follow the pattern as written.
If your swatch shows that you’re way off, you can either re-write all the pattern instructions for your correct math, or try another substitute yarn which matches the listed gauge better.
I gotta be honest with you my yarnie friends – I have a hard figure to fit. I’m short + busty and to make matters worse, I have hulk shoulders & biceps. Buying clothes is always a challenge because my bust, waist and hips generally all reside in their own, separate size range. Making your own clothes is also challenging when you’re trying to make that all work together.
Fit Review
Yes, this is a boxy top, with no waist shaping and a yoke neckline. This style works pretty well for my body & the way I prefer to wear my knits.
Pros for me:
Slight cons for me:
Morgan does a lovely job designing sweaters – I love her styling, her fit choices, and she grades an inclusive range of sizes. The instructions are easy to follow and turn out well. This is my second Morthunder sweater and it won’t be my last. Definitely worth a knit!
Free Panglossian Pattern Version
Paid Panglossian Pattern PDF via Ravlery
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Dear Ravelry Community,
I first would like to apologize for any stress and uncertainty that the Ravelry site redesign has caused in what is already a difficult year. I am so sorry that our actions, or inactions, have made anyone in the community feel unheard. We acknowledge that our responses up to this point have been insufficient.
It pains the whole team and myself that Ravelry, which we know is a source of comfort to many, caused any additional anxiety to anyone at all. I hope that people will find joy on Ravelry again and please know we are working hard toward this goal.
In the meantime, I thought that it might be useful to have some common questions answered by me today.
Why has this response taken so long?
I know it has taken so long for me to get to this letter and I sincerely apologize for the delay. Given the number of responses to the site redesign in June, we wanted to be very purposeful and thorough. We are still going through the wide range of feedback, getting more messages every day, and trying to navigate a path forward with accessibility leading. We hoped that the updates in the For the Love of Ravelry forum and on Ravelry’s front page would help, but that has not worked for everyone. We will improve starting now by publishing these updates on this separate Ravelry blog (which uses a standard blog template design) as well as on Ravelry’s front page.
Why has the community not heard from Cassidy on Ravelry threads and Twitter? Why are we turning off Instagram comments and forum threads?
The moderators in the For the Love of Ravelry forum have been instructed by us to shut down the threads about the site redesign because we are just not able to keep up with the volume of posts in the forums and track the issues that people are bringing up, much less thoughtfully respond.
It is not because Cassidy and I and our team don’t care about the community. We understand that our choice to limit the redesign feedback channels to email-only has frustrated folks and is different from how we have collaborated about changes in the past. However, email has proved to be the only way that we can actually take in and track the flood of input and be able to do the real work of improving the site. We really do want to hear from you and appreciate your emails to contact-us@ravelry.com.
Another quick way that Ravelers will be able to give feedback very soon is the new beta testing feature that we will be launching. It will allow us to test new additions and changes to the site in a more organized way. (More details coming!) We are also looking into how we communicate on Ravelry’s social media, forums, and the blog to see where we can make improvements and lessen frustration.
With regard to tweets and emails sent by Cassidy, we would like to make clear they do not reflect the opinions and professional intentions of the Ravelry team, or the way we think about what people are experiencing. We have not been as aware as we should be that these messages were being sent. Cassidy was not in a state to be talking with people, though she does understand that this is no excuse and that the emails that she wrote were hurtful. She is ashamed and sincerely sorry. It will take a period of adjustment, but in the future Cassidy's role will be focused on technical work. She no longer has access to the customer service emails and her Ravelry mail is disabled.
Why didn’t we just go back to Classic Ravelry as the default?
We hear, understand, and believe that the New site is still not working for some. In addition to the updates and customization options that we’ve already shared, we are in the process of creating more with the goal of making the new Ravelry site work well for everyone. I want to stress that the updates that Mary Heather has posted are not the only things we are working on. We have also been searching for a consultant with a specialization in visual web accessibility that we can work with on an ongoing basis, as the people we have spoken with so far were only available temporarily. We are continuing to research, and this is a priority for us.
If you cannot use the new design right now, Classic Ravelry is still available to you, and you can switch your account to the Classic site through a toggle in your Profile drop-down menu. We have made no changes to Classic Ravelry (which you can verify by comparing the CSS files as they appeared on June 15: part 1 and part 2), and will not be adding new features or making changes to it, so it will remain the familiar site that you are used to.
Naturally, some people have wondered why we didn’t roll back to using the Classic site as the default, and of course we seriously considered this option.
Over the years, we had heard from many people who had trouble using the Classic version of Ravelry. Since June, many reactions that we have received about the redesign have let us know that the new design is much more usable for many of these Ravelers, including a large number of people with disabilities and folks with vision issues.
For example: we know that the new mobile site—which is many people’s only way to access Ravelry—is proving to be much more accessible to many Ravelers with disabilities. We are also finding that specific elements of the new design that some folks say affect them negatively are, to others, improvements compared to the old site.
After taking in the breadth of initial feedback, we came to the conclusion that switching back to Classic Ravelry would not serve the greatest number of Ravelers. It was not an easy decision to make, as we want the site to be the best it can be for everyone, but we feel confident that keeping the new design of Ravelry, with the customization options we now have available at ravelry.com/preferences (and more coming with accessibility forefront in our minds!) is the best solution for the most people.
If it is too much, why don’t we hire more people?
As Ravelry has grown, every change to the site both big and small, has elicited a larger response than the previous change. This includes both positive and negative feedback. Ravelry is only four full-time people and we have realized that we need to re-evaluate how our work is done.
We discuss the issue of staffing frequently. Because of how we choose to run this business and how we make money, our budget is extremely tight. Cassidy and I have always stated that Ravelry will be free for users, to make it available to all regardless of budget. Though we have had the opportunity, we have not taken outside venture capital money to grow the business. Investors always have motivations (profit!) and we are dedicated to keeping our community’s values first. We have never been in it for the money (and as many yarn businesses know, there isn’t a lot of money in this industry anyway). Also, we’ve wanted to keep the ads focused on our own community’s businesses and are committed to keeping ad prices and designer rates low. We have no plan to sell Ravelry and we consider Ravelry to be a utility for the yarn community that we want to continue into the future. So while adding additional full time staff members is an ongoing discussion, it is not something we can currently act on.
So what comes next?
We are working on more customizations based on survey results and the input we've received. We are confident that the forthcoming updates based on this data will be truly helpful to people who are having issues with high contrast aspects of the site design. Also, the new behind-the-scenes design system will allow for increased modern accessibility as we redo areas of the site and build new features. We will continue to consult outside accessibility experts as well.
I know that we have made mistakes and I am so sorry that we have made anyone feel unwelcome on Ravelry since June. We are working hard every day to improve and make Ravelry as accessible and useful as it can be.
We love building Ravelry together. We’ve often called the early years of Ravelry a “barn raising” and even though the site has grown so much since then, we still feel like it’s something that we all do together. You are as important to Ravelry as we, the staff, are.
I hope that the ability to use the site in its familiar Classic mode along with ongoing updates and improvements to the new design will help folks to enjoy Ravelry and gain trust in us again.
Jessica for the Ravelry team: Cassidy, Mary Heather, Sarah, Livia and Christina
]]>My cozy knitting corner this morning.
Here are a few of my favorites:
Cape Woolmai: free until April 12
Lun Pullover: free until March 31, 2020
Sunrise Over Bryce Shawl: free until May 1, 2020
U Pick Mittens: free until March 31st
Odyssey Shawl: free
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Short answer – these are small-batch spun and dyed yarns, most often of exceptionally high quality, and we small producers can’t take advantage of cost savings available to large, commercial yarn producers. Furthermore, hand dyeing is time-intensive and labor adds significantly to the cost of the final skein.
Since I’m not into short answers, let’s go deeper into what producing artisan dyed yarn entails, and how that will benefit your next project.
When you purchase a skein of Yarn Love, you’re getting the crème de la crème of yarn. Before any yarn comes into the line, it’s been dyed, knitted, ripped, reknit, laundered and generally put through its paces to see how it will perform.
In addition to the testing process, most of the yarns in my line have been compared against other producer’s similar yarns and I choose the best of the bunch. You get the softest yarn, beautifully spun, and dyed in gorgeous colors.
My suppliers are also small businesses, and their pricing includes dedication to quality over quantity. They have expended a great amount of effort to craft unique yarns which will create a wonderful handmade garment.
Undyed yarn waiting to be skeined and dyed.
I believe that we are custodians of our earth and each other. That means I place a high priority on responsibly produced wool and mills which pay their workers a living wage. Happily, my main mill is located in North America, which further reduces transportation costs and secondary environmental impacts.
Many of my yarns come RWS certified; so that from farm to spinnery, the environment, the sheep, and their wool are produced at the highest standard. Read more about the RWS here.
I also offer some very special breed-specific yarns, such as Audrey Hepburn. Audrey is a mix of Polwarth wool and silk – similar in softness to Merino wool – but this certified organic wool is sourced from 2 family farms in the Falkland Islands.
Happy sheep make for amazing wool; so they are never dipped in pesticides, they graze in fields free from chemical fertilizers, and their wool is scoured at an Enco certified facility, ensuring the highest environmental standards for wool scouring. So while this yarn isn’t RWS certified, the standards from sheep to yarn are top-notch.
Happy sheep are the start of an amazing yarn.
Like many dyers, Yarn Love started out as a hobby and turned into a full-fledged business. As my business experience grew, so did my business practices. Yarn Love is an S corporation and my yarns are priced to provide a living wage to myself.
Yarn Love is also priced to support the larger yarn community. Wholesale is a large part of Yarn Love’s business and my pricing allows local yarn shop owners to purchase artisan dyed yarn and resell at a modest profit.
I believe independent artisans and yarn shops add greatly to the yarn community and my yarn is priced to allow a margin of profit for each skein sold. That means I can pay my bills and your local yarn shop can keep their doors open.
Hand dyeing yarn is time intensive. My least labor intensive dye process requires every skein to be handled a minimum of 21 times. Skeins with multiple colors and dye styles, add to that number.
The result of hand dyeing are lively skeins, vibrant colors, and a delightful knit / crochet experience. The vitality infused into the yarn here at the studio can been seen and felt every time you pick up your project.
Quality dyeing requires a high degree of experience and skill, and labor costs are included in the price of each skein.
Every skein is crafted by hand.
When you make a purchase from Yarn Love, it’s not a one and done experience. I stand behind my product and spend many hours to make your customer experience from shopping to finished object as delightful as possible.
My line is curated – so my solids exactly match my variegated yarns to make color pairing easy. I’m happy to make personalized pattern and color recommendations, too!
I stand behind every skein – so in the rare event something goes wrong, you can get in touch & I will help find a solution to the issue.
You get rewarded for buying yarn. Yep – I have a customer rewards program to give back to you for doing what you love: buying yarn.
Hi, I'm Katie & I dyed your yarn.
]]>I think using heavier weight yarns to learn stranded colorwork is fabulous. You get a lot of visual bang for your buck & it can be easier to switch colors with slightly larger yarn.
First up, is my Sanguine Sweater. I opted for a two color sweater, instead of using 4+ as suggested by the pattern. It helps keep things simple & reduced the number of skeins you need to buy.
I opted for Amy March Worsted, but if I were to knit it again, I would choose Amy DK instead. My gauge was right in between, and I think the slightly lighter option is the way to go for wearability.
Pattern: Sanguine Sweater by Morgan Woltersdorf
Yarn: Amy March Worsted in Arabian Nights and Glimmer
I used Glimmer as the light / background color, and Arabian Nights in place of all the accent colors. Full details can be found on my Ravelry project page here.
Next up is my ZigZag Jumper - knit in Amy March Bulky. This sweater just zips off the needles, thanks to the bulky yarn. Amy Bulky is a little lighter than the yarn used in the pattern, but my gauge was spot on, and the fabric feels wonderful. It's a great matchup of yarn & pattern.
Pattern: ZigZag Jumper by Mrs. Moon
Yarn: Amy March Bulky in Pointe Shoes, Flamingo, Passion, Champagne
If you'd like a kit made up for the ZigZag Jumper, email me. I'm happy to dye one up for you while custom ordering is open.
Full details & in-progress photos are waiting for you right here on my Ravelry project page.
I also put together an alternate color palettes, for those of you who prefer to wear cooler colors (These can be kitted for you, too!):
Old Gold, Art Deco, Conifer, Storm
Antique Teal, Art Deco, Conifer, Storm
Old Gold, Art Deco, Conifer, Champagne
Taroko Sweater
Let's get a little adventurous with some crochet, shall we? Yes, this sweater is crocheted! I consider myself to be little better than a novice crocheter, and the Taroko sweater pattern is perfect for a new crocheter looking for their next project.
Pattern: Taroko Sweater by Nomad Stitches
Yarn: Mr. Darcy in Shiny Penny, Juliet in Art Deco and Smoky Topaz.
All the details can be found on my Ravelry project page.
I want your socks to fly off your needles in a happy haze of pumpkin-scented stitches so I've put together my best resources which cover the trickier parts of knitting colorwork socks.
How long should I knit in the main color after the colorwork chart but before I begin the heel flap?
I knit for 1.75" / 4 cm before beginning my heel flap. I like shorter ankle socks, and so I keep my total cuff length 4-5" / 10-13 cm - including the ribbing - before beginning my heel flap.
If you'd like your colorwork to peek above an ankle boot or you have long legs, feel free to make your own sock cuff longer. There's plenty of yardage in the main color for a longer cuff.
How do I customize the heel fit?
Since socks should be worked smaller than your actual foot (negative ease) for best fit, and because feet come in so many shapes and sizes, changing up the heel a bit for a custom fit is a great option.
In general you can:
Be aware that when you change the number of sts in the heel flap, you will need to alter the total number of sts worked between paired wrap and turns (W&T). I usually like a minimum of 6 W&Ts on each side of the heel, so leave at least 6 unworked sts on each side of the heel if you narrow the heel flap.
Again, if you alter the number of rows worked in the heel flap, you will need to change the number of sts picked up on each side.
Pick up and knit 1 st for every 2 rows worked. This is really easy if you've slipped each selvage st as you pick up and knit in every st on each edge (since there is 1 selvage st for every 2 rows).
Double check that you've picked up the same number of sts on each side of the heel flap, and decrease as the pattern states until you return to the original number of total sts.
Full article on sock fit customizing - written by Interweave, this article goes in-depth into customizing sock fit.
Color Dominance Tips for the Happy Jack Sock Pattern - Make your dominant color the "bright" color for all rows of the colorwork chart except Rows 11-12. For these rows only, switch the black to the dominant color (pulling this tail under the brighter accent). That way your single-stitch eyes and nose show up fully in the jack o'lantern face.
Two Handed, Two Color Knitting - This is how I knit with two colors at once. One note - read the tutorial on color dominance below then choose which color to hold in which hand. The color running below will appear more dominant in your final product (for me, that's the yarn I hold in my left hand).
Two handed, two color knitting can be super-awkward to learn because you are training yourself to knit all over again, using your other hand. However, if you practice and push through the initial frustration, your two color knitting will flow much faster, and I found it improved my final tension, too.
Color Dominance in 2 Color Knitting - Before you embark on even your first 2 color, stranded knitting project give this article a read! How you carry your colors affects how they appear in your knitting. Nail this before you switch halfway through you project!
Though the pattern referenced in the video is for a worsted weight sock, all the other instructions apply. Watch these videos to see how the top-down flap style heel sock is worked. It's like having your own knitting coach!
Do you have a question that I didn't answer? Send me an email: katie@yarnloveyarn.com - I'm happy to help you get a lovely pair of Happy Jack socks!
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My newest pattern - Happy Jack Socks - releases September 30th. Add 15 grams each of Black Coffee & Frog Prince (or any black & green sock scraps you may have in stash.) and you'll be all set to cast on.
If you're on a 3 month subscription, you'll receive this sock pattern free with your membership! If you'd like to purchase the pattern, it will be $4 & release in a few weeks.
Two words: picot hem! Aren't these just so sweet? Enough pattern to keep you entertained & not over-the-top Halloweeny.
Look at the lacy stitch on these socks! Personally, I would use regular stockinette on the heel for added durability, but this is a knock-out design for any time of the year & makes variegated colors look lovely.
More dropped stitch goodness. This time, a little more substance & this pattern will look great year-round. Plus, how perfect would it be to knit Bellatrix socks out of Polyjuice Potion yarn?
That's it for this month's sock club roundup! Happy sock knitting, my yarn-loving friends!
Here are my best pattern ideas for your next sock!
I recently discovered the clasped weft join - an amazing technique for knitting up colorful stripes with no ends to weave. Amazing!
Watch the Clasped Weft Join video here.
I worked a plain vanilla sock, with a short-row heel, using the accent colors Arabian nights (included in your sock pack) and Old Gold along with the main color Beatrix. (Both accents are available in 20 & 50 gram skeins on Cinderella.)
I went with 50 gram skeins of both accent colors, and had more than half of every skein leftover after knitting up a 60 st pair of women's size 9 socks. You may be able to use 20 grams of each accent color if you have small feet.
I did spiral my color joins as I knit, to make the jog at the beginning of each color less noticeable & I love how it turned out. To spiral your joins, simply knit 2 sts beyond your previous color join every time you change colors. Use a stitch marker to help you easily see your last color change placement.
Stripe Recipe
7 rounds Beatrix / main color
3 rounds Arabian Nights / purple
4 rounds Old Gold / yellow
3 rounds Arabian Nights / purple
Throw in your favorite accent color for contrast ribbing, heels, toes, and you're all set! Best of all, when you're finished, you only have to clip the tails of any clasped weft joins - you only weave in your beginning and ending yarn tails.
The Yarn Love Ambassador for July also knit up a pair of Beatrix socks. She chose a Broken Rib pattern for hers. This pair showcases much more of the mail color - with an interesting and easily memorized stitch pattern without being fussy or time-consuming.
Full sock complete!
1x1 Twisted Ribbing at the top
3x1 Broken Rib
Again, choose your favorite vanilla sock construction and stitch count which is evenly divisible by 4. Use a 1x1 twisted rib at the top, and then switch to a 3x1 Broken rib for the leg and foot. Add your favorite heel and toe, and you're all set!
1x1 Twisted Rib
*k1tbl, p1* around
3x1 Broken Rib
Round 1: *k3,p1* around
Round 2: knit around
Still looking for the perfect pattern? Try my Sock Knitting board on Pinterest for 500+ more pattern suggestions!
Smooth Operator Pattern - it's a sock pattern & tutorial in one!
Adult Socks for Beginners - free, but not as much teaching in this pattern.
Are you a member of the sock club? Check out the resources on the Sock Club Resources page. Tutorials, videos, and more are there to help you navigate the wild world of sock knitting.
If you get stuck - send me an email or post in the Ravelry thread - we're here to help!
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First up - this months' colorway is named for a cocktail - a gin cocktail to be precise. I really do like a good gin & tonic in the summer time, so I'm looking forward to trying this new recipe out. Mmmm...yummy!
(Popping a slice of peach into whatever drink you currently have handy is not cheating & totally counts as a lovely yarn + drink pairing.)
Want to join the Sock Club? Full details here.
With drinks in hand, let's move onto the patterns. I knit up Dana Gervais' Dolores design this month. I do highly recommend it!
Peach Gin Fizz is really quite a versatile colorway as it's not-too-dark and not-too-busy, so you can choose fancier designs quite easily.
An Elegant Feather by Spivay Song Knits
Canterbury Socks by Fiber Wild
Still looking for the perfect pattern? Try my Sock Knitting board on Pinterest for 500+ more pattern suggestions!
Smooth Operator Pattern - it's a sock pattern & tutorial in one!
Adult Socks for Beginners - free, but not as much teaching in this pattern.
Are you a member of the sock club? Check out the resources on the Sock Club Resources page. Tutorials, videos, and more are there to help you navigate the wild world of sock knitting.
If you get stuck - send me an email or post in the Ravelry thread - we're here to help!
Let me know what you think when you cast on. I'm curious to hear!
Want to join the Sock Club? Full details here.
Go With the Flow by Dana Gervais
I have been loving Dana's sock patterns! I did opt for an afterthought heel, rather than the pattern heel. With socks it's so easy to change out your heel style for a custom fit.
Here are a few notes on how variegated yarns with a regular repeat (like this handpainted skein) interact with small circumference items like socks or sleeves if you're interested. This section isn't required to actually knit your socks!
If a variegated yarn has a definite repeat - the colors occur in the same length, in a set pattern like All Business- you'll often see pooling or largish blotches of colors as you progress. I personally LOVE pooling & it's wavy color patches....but some people hate it.
You can even out the color pooling, creating a more even fabric. Look at this photo below. The top sock is knit straight from the skein without any color pooling counter-measures & the bottom sock was knit using the alternating row technique (details below):
On the bottom sock, you can still see the color variations, but they're much more even & don't look like a lightning bolt of yellow and aqua down the sock. This color pooling counter-measure is easy to employ!
1.) Wind your yarn into a center pull ball; making sure that both ends are free OR Wind two 50 gram balls.
2.) Knit all odd rows from Ball One or the inside end of the center-pull ball.
3.) Knit all even rows from Ball Two or the outside end of the center-pull ball.
When starting to work, make sure that you start rows one at two at a different point in the color sequence. For example, start row one in a yellow segment and row two on a blue segment for best color blending.
4.) Keep alternating balls/ends on each row, simply dropping the current yarn, and picking up the other yarn for the next row.
That's it! You can adjust the color-blending affect by changing the color segment starting points on each ball/end.
A little texture & a few slipped stitches to help break up color pooling!
A higher texture stitch pattern perfect for blending up all those variegated colors.
Another take on using slipped stitches paired with variegated yarn for a lovely, textured fabric.
Smooth Operator Pattern - it's a sock pattern & tutorial in one!
Adult Socks for Beginners - free, but not as much teaching in this pattern.
Do also checkout the resources on the Sock Club Resources page. Tutorials, videos, and more are there to help you navigate the wild world of sock knitting.
If you get stuck - send me an email or post in the Ravelry thread - we're here to help!
Thanks to it's generous yardage & lighter-than-air feel, you can hold Catherine of Aragon doubled with the pattern suggested yarn without changing gauge.
For example: Mohair Magic Socks
Be careful - if the yarn you've chosen is swatching up a little tight or heavy, then adding the laceweight yarn may change your gauge. Swatch and check gauge before proceeding!
The silk core is strong - which means you can work Catherine up at a very loose gauge & still retain shape. (Blocking is still your friend!) Lace patterns are going to shine using this technique! You'll get a semi-transparent fabric & a very light garment.
For example: the Pappus Pullover
Keep your needle size consistent, but alternate Catherine with a heavier weight yarn to create see-through stripes in your fabric.
Example: Elton Cardigan
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A super-fast project, in a bulky yarn provides a great pop of color & fast results. Try Amy March Bulky.
Another gloriously bright sweater - in bulky - this time for adults. I want to knit up one of these so badly! Look at that color!
I'm eyeing up Champagne, Haute Couture, Fable and Misty Sunrise for my own pink version!
Get out all the bright colors - you're going to need them - for this playful, new shawl design from Casapinka. Recreate this look with: Comet, Haute Couture, and Antique Teal on Marie Antoinette for the ultimate cashmere softness with a hint of glitter!
Alternate color kit: Misty Sunrise, Shiny Penny, and Peach.
This is oversized sweater features modern graphic flower colorwork. It's fresh & different!
Hurry up, spring! I can't wait for warm breezes and bright sunshine again!
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You'll need to order additional skeins of the main color - I suggest either Kindess or Empathy.
5. Ribbon Wrap
Again, you'll need an additional skein of the main color.
Who's excited to cast on with the Kindness Collection?
(Me! Me! Me!)
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I attribute this to the fact that it is deep winter here in the Midwest - the sun is absent and if the thermometer registers a temperature above 0, things are going well. Another factor is that prior to getting settled into our new house and the yarn studio, I didn't knit much at all for 18 months. Between keeping my four kiddos fed and schooled, a massive building project which encompassed both my home and work, and helping Mr. Yarn Love through his final year of MBA studying (while he worked full time) there wasn't much down time. But the season of frenetic work has passed, and I'm enjoying the still, cold months with my knitting (and wine!).
As I've worked on my colorwork projects, I've noticed that 4 oz of fingering weight yarn in each of 4-6 colors is WAY too much for your average sock. That would be a lot for a sweater! I decided to help us all out, and offer a really affordable yarn, in smaller skeins, in ALL THE COLORS!!!
I'm so happy to announce that Cinderella fingering is waiting for you! The inaugural batch has 32 colors - available in both 50 gram and 20 gram skeins.
I'll be posting more about the color selection and how to pair them up soon, but while I work up that blog post, let me make some color suggestions:
Main Color: Material Girl on Marie Antoinette
Accent colors: Cinderella (grab those 20 gram skeins!) Pizzazz, Lilac, Frog Prince, Verdigris
Pattern: Rainbow Dash by Dana Gervais
Main Color: Mr. Darcy Barenaked
Accent colors: Martini, Shiny Penny, Stallion
Pattern: Little Acorn Socks by Charlotte Stone
I hope that got the wheels in your brain turning out wonderful project ideas. See the full range of Cinderella colors right here & cast-on something wonderful & full of color!
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Smooth Operator Pattern - it's a sock pattern & tutorial in one!
Adult Socks for Beginners - free, but not as much teaching in this pattern.
Do also checkout the resources on the Sock Club Resources page. Tutorials, videos, and more are there to help you navigate the wild world of sock knitting.
If you get stuck - send me an email or post in the Ravelry thread - we're here to help!
Using your preferred stitch count & sock pattern follow this striping sequence:
Color pattern:
MC for 12 rows
CC for 3 rows
MC for 3 rows
CC for 3 rows
MC for 3 rows
CC for 3 rows
Repeat color sequence for full sock.
The color sequence is reversed for the second sock, so that I have a fraternal pair. One has a black background with rainbow stripes, and the other has a rainbow background with black stripes.
My preferred basic sock pattern is worked top down with a regular heel flap heel over 45% of the total stitches for 20 rows; 64 total stitches. Top down, bottom up, and heel type don't matter at all to the stripe pattern - use whatever works for you!
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Don't let the Finnish title scare you - this pattern also comes in well-written English and works up super-fast. I had my first sock cast on and cast off in 2 days. A little bit of detail makes a huge impact in this pretty pair. I used a 30 gram accent skein and less than 100 grams mail color on my project.
Great for: a quick knit, introduction to colorwork.
Columns of great big hearts adorn this pair - as well as "love" being knit in near the toes. Industrious & faithful knitters have been knitting in the name of their beloved, too!
Great for: showpiece knit, colorwork adventures, mini-skein packs
Easy, peasy, pumpkin squeasy! A perfect introduction to two color, stranded knitting. Shown in two solid colors, I also think this would look amazing with one solid + one variegated skein.
Great for: intro to colorwork, variegated yarn, mindless knitting
Look at this amazing sock construction! It's so different - and allows the heart motif to flow around the ankle. I don't know about you, but I want to knit this pattern just to see how the heel construction works up!
Great for: novel knitting, hidden love, colorwork adventures
Adorable! A couple of little, lace hearts adorn the ankle for an understated look. These sweet socks are great for February, but versatile enough to wear all winter.
Great for: easy, fast knit; solid to lightly variegated colors
That's it for the Valentine's Day pattern round up. Pick your favorite, and let's cast on!
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If you've joined the Sock Club, click the link below to go to exclusive member content which includes: basic tutorials, Katie's favorite sock needles, and monthly pattern recommendations.
(You'll need to sign in to see the content.)
Want to join the Yarn Love sock club? Do that here!
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(Susan B. Anderson's sock drawers. I aspire to this!)
You are not alone.
Fuel your dreams.....and your knitting....with the Yarn Love Sock Club. Every month, I will send you 100-120 grams (3.5 - 4 oz) of fingering weight yarn in a brilliant new color. When your package arrives, it's time to fire up those needles.
Variety is the spice of life, and of your sock drawer!
Each shipment will include a brand-new colorway + a mini skein in a coordinating color for a little contrast. They may also include two 50 gram skeins for fraternal socks, or even a mini-skein set for fabulously striped socks or even *gasp* colorwork socks.
Be inspired. Cast on.
Who doesn't love a good sock pattern? I'll put together exclusive content, including pattern suggestions, to match each monthly shipment, so you'll never be at a loss for what to do with your club yarn.
The first installments ship January 15th.
My Dark Magic socks knit with Magic + Velvet Midnight.
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This is what you're searching for. This is an example and not the location of today's prize graphic. (It's somewhere else here on the website.)
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The "ugly Christmas sweater" turned into socks! Plus, the colorwork is contained to the cuff & just a bit at the toe, so these won't take you months to complete.
Great for:
Recommended colors:
Again, stranded colorwork - but with a non-traditional twist! Yes, you could absolutely knit these in traditional colors, but why not pull out a crazy speckled colorway for that background instead? Speckled yarns look like twinkling tree lights!
Need socks faster? Only do the colorwork on the cuffs, and knit a plain foot! It will fly off your needles & only you'll know!
Great for:
Recommended colors:
Kick back & relax in this fun pair! Red & green will make a very traditional pair, but I like wild colors for this pattern!
Great for:
Recommended colors:
These are hilarious! Everyone needs some dancing elves in their lives.....and in the their shoes.
Great for:
Recommended colors:
Did you leave your socks to the very last minute? Grab a worsted yarn (or better yet, hold two strands of fingering weight together) and cast on your "procrastinator Christmas" socks!
Great for:
Recommended colors:
I didn’t use a formal pattern for this pair of socks. I just worked my personalized vanilla sock pattern, using a contrast solid yarn for the toes, heel, and cuff. If you're an experienced sock knitter, feel free to use your favorite sock pattern, and simply add in the stitch pattern.
Are you new to socks? Here's a vanilla (basic) sock pattern to get you started!
The color shown in this pair of socks is Dark Kale. It's a vibrant, hand-painted colorway which can cause pooling in small circumference garments like socks and sleeves. Instead of letting it sit unloved on my shelf, I cast on with a stitch pattern to emphasize it's beauty!
Needs an even number of stitches.
Row 1: *k1, yotwice*
Row 2-3: *k1, sl1*
Row 4-6: knit
Repeat these rows as needed until you've reached the desired length.
That's it! This simple slipped stitch pattern is easy to memorize & can be used with top down or toe up construction. Pull it out the next time you have a gorgeous skein of variegated yarn, which is itching to become your next knock-out pair of socks!
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Hand dyeing is the process of applying dye to a textile by hand. No machines are used; this coloring is accomplished by people power!
Plant fiber, animal fiber, natural dyes, manufactured dyes - it doesn’t matter. The point of differentiation is that a person - usually an artist - applied the dye.
Let’s look deeper at what hand-dyeing means for the yarn community; in particular here at Yarn Love. Hand-dyeing goes deeper into philosophy than you might realize. It’s faster and much less expensive to have a machine dye yarn. Machines don’t get tired, batch sizes can be immense, and they represent a significant advancement in profitability for the manufacturer.
But what if you don’t want faster, cheaper, and more industrial profit?
Enter hand-dyeing. Each skein is handled and manipulated individually - by a person, an artisan. The individual handling creates minute differences from skein to skein - even within the same batch - making each skein an individual work of artistry and skill.
Because most indie yarn companies sprung out of the artists’ love and passion there can be significant differences in technique and dyeing styles - meaning there is an enormous world of brilliantly color skeins just waiting for you to discover.
Hand-dyed yarn is quality and luxury. Dyers work with their yarns every day. Because of the time it takes to create new colorways, mix and apply the dyes, heat set, then wash and package the skeins for sale, most dyers opt for the highest quality yarn they can find - with natural and luxury fiber blends. Even basic, “work horse” yarns in a dyer’s line are typically much higher quality than what you’ll see on the shelves at your local big box craft store.
When you contemplate the significant number of hours you'll spend on your next yarn project doesn't it make sense to choose a quality yarn...so that every stitch is a delight?
Hand-dyed yarn refreshes the soul, sparks creativity and cultivates excitement. I’ve seen this again and again at craft shows over the years. A customer will walk into the booth because they value high-quality yarns and enjoy supporting artisans…..but they fall in love with a skein because it reaches out and touches something deep within them. There’s a transmission of love and creativity from the dyer to the knitter through the yarn. It’s a thread that binds them and the final project becomes a creative collaboration.
For me, this is the best part of my job. That moment of sharing; where the yarn I crafted becomes something more beautiful because it was appreciated by it’s new owner and transformed into something lovely.
Here at Yarn Love, hand-dyed yarn represents a small shelter from our fast-paced and increasingly digital world. A chance to bring a small bit of artistry and creativity into daily life. Every time I cast on with a hand-dyed skein, I remember why making things by hand, with care and intention, brings fulfillment and joy into my life.
Each skein of Yarn Love brings the same philosophy of creativity, quality, and community to you. Hand-dyeing yarn is a labor intensive craft, and it's also brilliantly colorful and creative. It's my way of making the world a lovelier place - one strand, one stitch at a time.
I love this pic of my daughters & I knitting from a few years ago.
Here’s a roundup of sock patterns made to show off all your fanciest hand-dyed skeins:
Really colorful yarns need a simple stitch pattern to shine. If you’re a little tired of vanilla socks (plain stockinette), give this pattern a try. Spice things up a bit by using a complimentary color as an accent on your toes & heels.
Great for:
Recommended colors:
A brand-new pattern perfect for your Socktober cast-on. This sock features slipped stitch colorwork - which means you’ll only work with one color at a time. This is a perfect pattern if you’re curious about colorwork, but intimidated by carrying more than one color at a time.
Great for:
Recommended colors:
To be honest, I ran across this pattern on Instagram and I’ve been obsessed ever since. Not a little-bit-interested, full on dye-up-3-new-colors to make this pair of socks obsessed. Little Acorn features a modern twist on very traditional looking colorwork. Plus, this pair will look great for all of fall.
Great for:
Texture galore on this pretty pattern! Plus, it works well for moderately variegated colors & speckles. The stitch pattern helps distribute the individual colors in your yarn, giving your finished sock an even color appearance.
Great for:
Recommended colors:
A sophisticated pattern, with lots of motion in the stitch pattern. Are they cables? Is it lace? I don’t know, but I know I need a pair! I do love that the foot portion is solid stockinette - I find cable crosses under my shoes to be uncomfortable, so this pattern gives you the best of both worlds.
Great for:
Recommended colors:
It's possible to get a great autumn look without going all-in on the amazing reds and oranges. Let's take a look at cool fall colors!
Every color has a warm tone & a cool tone. So for every brilliant red-orange, there is an amazing salmon on the cool side of the spectrum. If traditional fall colors (typically the warm tones) just wash you out, head on over to the cool side of the spectrum. (I'll meet you there.)
or
warm (Bolivian Chili) cool (Cranberry)
or
warm (Shiny Penny) cool (Misty Sunrise)
4. Try a yellow tempered with black and brown rather than the brilliant, copper tones.
or
warm (Saffron) cool (Old Gold)
I work with color all day long. I literally build it from component primary colors - so it's easy for me to spot a warm red vs. a cool red. I totally understand that you likely don't have this dedication to color, so let's look at colors that celebrate fall - even if you can't wear warm tones.
Try this cool trio:
Old Gold + Stargazing + Seaglass
These are cooler autumn tones. If you look amazing in teal or cool green, these are your colors!
Bonus cool fall colors in case gold and green aren't your favorites:
Arabian Nights - Cranberry - Pizzazz - Old Gold
Give me a shout out in the comments & I'd be happy to put together a perfect trio for all my warm color yarn lovers!
We might not get to control the complexion hand we're dealt, but we can certainly choose amazing colors which highlight our assets! I would love to help you find the colors that make your next project perfect for you - whether you fall on the warm or cool side of the complexion spectrum.
Hit me up with your questions in the comments!
~katie
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Fable, Mermaid, Misty Sunrise, and Lagoon are just begging to become your next cheerful project. Plus, these three coordinates add color to Mermaid, without becoming too busy. It's time to cast on!
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